French Lick and West Baden Springs
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About this ebook
John Martin Smith
John Martin Smith, a former president of the Indiana Historical Society, has been active in many historical endeavors. He is the author of several books, including Kendallville and Noble County, Angola and Steuben County, DeKalb County, Allen County, and Auburn: The Classic City.
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French Lick and West Baden Springs - John Martin Smith
Smith
INTRODUCTION
My first trip to French Lick – West Baden Springs was in 1967 to attend the Indiana State Bar Association Annual Convention, which was held at the French Lick Springs Hotel. I was awed by the hotel and its amenities. Continuing legal education sessions were held during the day in various areas of the hotel.
The evening banquets were elaborate. Eight guests were seated at each round table covered with white linen tablecloths. The china with the French Lick Springs crest was impressive. Being a farm boy from DeKalb County, I was not sure what to do with the array of flatware at each setting. The most memorable part of the banquet was the serving of the dessert. The house band struck up a rousing rendition of When the Saints Go Marching In.
I was prompted by a friend to watch the swinging doors—then eight African American waiters came dancing into the hall balancing huge trays of desserts on their heads. They each danced to their stations and deftly put the trays on their stand before serving the desserts. I shall always remember that presentation.
The keynote speaker was noted defense attorney F. Lee Bailey, who flew his private jet from Florida to French Lick. After he became airborne, he radioed the flight control tower and reported that he was flying to French Lick, Indiana. The air flight controller asked, incredulously, French Lick What?
As guests, we explored the hotel and its grounds and even had a drink of Pluto Water. The hotel was getting a bit seedy
at that time, but this was overlooked by one who appreciated the building from a historical standpoint. As we left on Saturday, we were able to have a short tour of the West Baden Springs Hotel, then occupied by the Northwood Institute. This was the most impressive building I had ever seen. I was awed by the dome. The building was last used as a hotel in 1932, and many modifications had been done. However, the atrium and dome were original. As one interested in historic preservation and a collector of vintage postcards, I began acquiring images of the hotels. This collection is the basis for this book.
Springs Valley was a happy hunting grounds
of the Native Americans for many centuries. The mineral springs were considered to be a gift from the Great Spirit.
Here the wild beasts of the forest were at peace with the Native Americans. French settlement occurred as early as 1729. George Rogers Clark named this area French Lick at an early date. The United States government reserved the area for salt springs, which were valuable in that era. The springs produced no salt, however, and the land became available for purchase. The springs were purchased by Dr. William A. Bowles in 1832. He built a hotel in 1840 and touted the springs for their medicinal and curative qualities. Although he leased the facilities at various times, he maintained ownership until his death in 1873.
Indiana’s 1852 constitution and Black Laws
prohibited African Americans from being brought into Indiana. He appealed his conviction to the Indiana Supreme Court, and the conviction was reversed on technical grounds. Dr. Bowles was proslavery and brought several African Americans into Indiana, including a woman named Polin. He was charged with a criminal offense and convicted. During the Civil War, Dr. Bowles was active in the Knights of the Golden Circle, a group that opposed the Civil War. He was tried for treason by a military court in the infamous Indianapolis Treason Trials. He was convicted and sentenced to hang by the neck until dead.
Pres. Abraham Lincoln had suspended the writ of habeas corpus so he could not appeal his conviction to a civil court. Shortly before the scheduled date of execution, then-president Andrew Johnson commuted the sentence, and Dr. Bowles was freed.
The 1876 atlas of Indiana stated that the springs "have long been deservedly popular for the cure of chronic afflictions of liver, dyspepsia, etc. They are delightful watering places, and have for many years been the chief summer resort for many of the health and pleasure seekers of Kentucky and