Souped Up: More Than 100 Recipes for Soups, Stews, and Chilis, and the Breads, Salads, and Sweets to Make Them a Meal
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About this ebook
Who doesn't like a bowl of homemade soup? Cold or hot, vegetable or chicken, smooth or chunky, there is a recipe in this book to suit even the most finicky eater.
Nobody knows soup like chef and author Sally Sampson. In Souped Up!, she tempts you with more than 100 delicious and easy-to-prepare recipes for soups, stews, chilis, and more. Sampson includes every imaginable type of soup in this delightful volume, including bean soups, fish soups, cream soups, chicken soups, and chilis and stews. No matter what the season (fall, winter, summer, or spring) or the purpose (appetizer, main course, or dessert), Sampson has a recipe for you.
Mouthwatering recipes like Triple Tomato; Broccoli Rabe, Butternut Squash, and Caramelized Onion; White Bean and Fennel; Split Pea with Lemon; Helen Geller's Matzoh Ball; and six variations of Gazpacho will please even the seasoned soup maker. For heartier fare, try recipes like Black Bean Chili; Beef Chili with Beer; Spicy Sausage Chili; Moroccan Vegetable Stew with Raisins, Herbs, and Rice; and Curried Chicken Stew. Sampson's recipes elevate soup making to the realm of the sublime.
She also offers helpful tips on making stocks, freezing soups, and essential ingredients and equipment. And for those who can't imagine dining on soup alone, Sampson offers recipes that complete a meal, from salad dressings (such as Sarah Conover's Pesto Dressing and Creamy Blue Cheese) and breads (Irish Soda Bread) to perfect sweets (including Cocoa Cookies and Oatmeal Lace Cookies).
Whether you're an experienced or novice cook, Sampson has a recipe to help you get Souped Up!
Sally Sampson
Sally Sampson is the founder of ChopChop magazine and the author and coauthor of numerous cookbooks, including the James Beard Award-nominated The $50 Dinner Party, Throw Me a Bone (with Cooper Gillespie), and The Olives Table (with Todd English). She has contributed to Self, Bon Appétit, Food & Wine, The Atlantic, The Boston Globe, and The Boston Phoenix. She lives with her family in Watertown, Massachusetts.
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Souped Up - Sally Sampson
Stocks
It is perhaps heresy to say so, but I think that the importance of making your own stock has been greatly overrated.
The culinary world’s insistence onmaking stock has prevented many otherwise gifted would-be soup makers from making soup. There are many stocks, broths, and soup bases on the market that are excellent. Some have MSG, some do not. Some have salt, some do not. Choosing which is right for you is a matter of personal taste. I will not intentionally eat anything with MSG in it, and I know that a lot of people are allergic to it; it is something to watch out for. Many specialty and whole food stores carry chicken and vegetable bases that are made without stabilizers or enhancers of any kind.
While clear and broth-like soups are somewhat better when made with homemade stock, I have found that most of the soups that I make rely less on the base and more on the flavoring of the main ingredient and/or herb.
Do try making your own stock; there is something very satisfying about the process and the results are, of course, worth the work—but only if you think that it is important, you enjoy making it, and you have the time.
The recipe for Helen Geller’s Matzoh Ball Soup makes an excellent chicken stock and the recipe for Not French Onion Soup makes an excellent vegetable stock, as does Stan Franken-thaler’s Vegetable Stock. If you’re looking for a good beef stock, I recommend the recipes in Julia Child’sThe Way to Cook (Knopf, 1989) or Bernard Clayton’sThe Complete Book of Soups and Stews (Fireside, 1984).
Chicken or Turkey Stock
Louise Corrigan was my favorite editor when I wrote forThe Boston Globe;when she left to write her own book, she continued writing articles. I begged her to let me quote from this one; in fact, I told her that I was sorry I hadn’t written it myself:
"At this time of year, deep into soup season, I find myself thinking often of my grandmother’s turkey soup. And whenever I do, I remember how awful it was.
"Here’s the recipe: Take one turkey carcass, stripped of every last trace of edible meat. Put it in a huge pot with a limp carrot and a brownish stalk of celery Add too much salt and twice as much water as any sensible person would use. Boil long enough to make the house smell good, but not long enough to infuse the water with any discernible taste of turkey. Ladle the brackish, faintly poultry-scented broth into bowls and serve.
For years, I was baffled when people extolled the wonders of homemade soup. How could anyone actually enjoy, much less prefer, this tasteless bowl of nothing? Finally, I attempted my own turkey soup, and I was amazed to realize what I’d been missing. Who knew soup had flavor?
In spite of the fact that I think homemade stock is superior to canned or boxed, in truth, I only make this stock when I have made a chicken or a turkey for dinner and have a leftover carcass to use. I usually use it when I am making chicken soup, for that is when it matters most.
Carcass and neck from 6 to 7 pound chicken or turkey
2 celery stalks, cut in half
1 parsnip, washed and halved
2 carrots, washed and halved
1 Spanish onion, quartered
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon dried thyme
Cold water, to cover
1 teaspoon kosher salt or more, to taste
Place all the ingredients, except the salt, in a stockpot and generously cover with cold water. Cook, partially covered, over medium heat until the mixture comes to a slow boil. Lower the heat to very low and continue cooking, partially covered, for 3 hours. Do not let it boil again.
Strain and discard the solids. Transfer to a large container, cover, and refrigerate up to three days. When the stock has completely cooled, skim and discard the hardened fat. Add salt to taste. Freeze up to six months.
YIELD:ABOUT10 CUPS
Stan Frankenthaler’s Vegetable Stock
Rich and flavorful Stan’s vegetable stock can be easily substituted for chicken stock in any vegetable or bean soup.
1 tablespoon soy oil
2 large or 4 small Spanish onions, coarsely chopped
1 leek green, sliced
1 garlic bulb, halved horizontally to expose the cloves
3 carrots, coarsely chopped
1 fennel bulb, coarsely chopped
3 to 4 cups fresh white button mushrooms
4 celery stalks, sliced
16 cups (1 gallon) cold water
Place a large stockpot over medium heat and, when it is hot, add the oil. Add the onions, leeks, garlic, carrots, fennel, mushrooms, and celery, and cook until they are very tender and just starting to fall apart, about 30 minutes. Add the water and cook over high heat until it comes to a boil.
Lower the heat to low and cook until the vegetables are completely falling apart, about 30 minutes. Strain and discard the solids. Transfer to a large container, cover, and refrigerate up to three days or freeze up to six months.
YIELD:12 CUPS
Smooth and Pureed Vegetable Soups
Vegetable soups are the easiest, most varied, and most versatile of soups. Most can be made from start to finish in less than an hour, and almost all lend themselves to creative substitutions. With the exception of tomatoes and artichokes, always use fresh vegetables, but feel free to experiment.
Asparagus with Fresh Herbs
Ilove asparagus soup, yet almost never order it when I am in restaurants. Instead of the typical drab, green glop they pass off as asparagus soup, this delicate version is a fresh, bright, rich green made only with straight, crisp stalks.
WIDELY USED INFRENCH COOKING,TARRAGON , A MEMBER OF THE SUNFLOWER FAMILY, HAS A SLIGHTLY BITTERSWEET ANISE FLAVOR.THERE ARE TWO CULTIVATED SPECIES OF TARRAGON,RUSSIAN ANDFRENCH.TARRAGON, UNLIKE MANY OTHER HERBS, WAS USED AS A MEDICINAL DRUG UNTIL THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY, AND WAS NOT BROUGHT TO THEUNITEDSTATES UNTIL THE EARLY NINETEENTH CENTURY.IT WAS BELIEVED TO CURE SNAKEBITE.
Store asparagus in the refrigerator in the same way you would a bouquet of flowers: standing upright in water.
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, olive oil, or canola oil
1 Spanish onion, coarsely chopped
2 garlic cloves, pressed or finely chopped
4 to 5 cups chicken stock
2 bunches fresh asparagus, woody stems broken off and discarded, stalks and tips chopped
1 teaspoon fresh tarragon or rosemary leaves, or 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves, plus additional for garnish
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 to 3 tablespoons fresh chopped chives, for garnish (optional) Parmesan, goat, or feta cheese (optional)
Place a stockpot over medium heat and, when it is hot, add the butter or oil. Add the onion and garlic, and cook until tender and lightly colored, about 10 to 15 minutes.
Add the stock, raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil.
Add the asparagus, and when it returns to a rolling boil, remove the solids and place in a blender. Add the tarragon and Dijon mustard. Process until smooth, gradually adding the cooking liquid.
Strain the soup if you must. (Straining will get rid of the slight stringiness. This is a matter of taste.) Serve immediately, garnished with chives and Parmesan cheese.
VARIATIONS:
Cream of Asparagus: Decrease the chicken stock by ¼ to ½ cup and stir in ¼ to ½ cup heavy cream after the soup has been pureed.
Chilled Asparagus: Double the amount of mustard and tarragon, and chill for 2 hours. Garnish just before serving.
YIELD:ABOUT5 CUPS
Broccoli Spinach
Two much maligned and hotly debated vegetables come together, and bring out the best in both. Even detractors of each vegetable individually will be pleased with the resulting combination.
The one thing I hate about making this soup is cleaning the spinach which, unless previously washed, is always incredibly, incredibly sandy. I usually soak the spinach in cold water and then lift it out (as opposed to draining it) and repeat the process until the bowls have no sand left in them.
1 tablespoon olive oil or unsalted butter
1 Spanish onion, coarsely chopped
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced or chopped
2 carrots, sliced
1 small head broccoli, woody end discarded, stem peeled and sliced, florets