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Gold Rush: Three Years in California
Gold Rush: Three Years in California
Gold Rush: Three Years in California
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Gold Rush: Three Years in California

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GOLD RUSH
“Looking at the map of California, it will be seen that the ‘mines’ occupy a long strip of mountainous country, which commences many miles to the eastward of San Francisco, and stretches northward several hundred miles. The Sacramento river running parallel with the mines, the San Joaquin joining it from the southward and eastward, and the Feather river continuing a northward course from the Sacramento—all of them being navigable—present the natural means of communication between San Francisco and the ‘mines.’ Accordingly, the city of Sacramento—about two hundred miles north of San Francisco—sprang up as the depôt for all the middle part of the mines, with roads radiating from it across the plains to the various settlements in the mountains.” ~J.D. Borthwick, 1857

“One of the classic first-person accounts of the California Gold Rush period.”

Gold was discovered in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in 1848. By 1850, thousands of men and women had arrived in California from all corners of the world in hopes of finding their riches. Ownership of precious gold could mean power and prosperity, but with it came challenges and struggles of living in uncharted territory.

J.D. Borthwick, an artist and college graduate, arrived in California in 1852, and spent three years exploring the mining camps. First-hand, he experienced the development of communities such as San Francisco, Sacramento, Placerville, Marysville, and other towns in the Sierra gold mining areas of Northern California.

In his 1857 book, Borthwick colorfully portrays the diverse customs and social activities of the pioneers and gold miners, the commerce and enterprise of developing communities, and the everyday life of the early settlers of the Golden State. Within these pages he left us with a precious nugget of history as we are taken back to an important event of the 19th century.

Linda Pendleton writes a new Introduction for Gold Rush. Linda enjoys writing fiction and nonfiction books and is a native Californian.

LanguageEnglish
Release dateJul 8, 2011
ISBN9781465937612
Gold Rush: Three Years in California
Author

Linda Pendleton

Linda Pendleton has written in a variety of genres: nonfiction, mystery novels, nonfiction ecourses, comic book scripting, and screenplays. She coauthored nonfiction and fiction with her late husband, renowned author, Don Pendleton, including the popular nonfiction books, To Dance With Angels, and Whispers From the Soul. A few of her other nonfiction books are A Walk Through Grief; Three Principles of Angelic Wisdom; A Small Drop of Ink. Her fiction work includes her novels, The Unknown; Sound of Silence; Deadly Flare-Up; Roulette, The Search for the Sunrise Killer by Don and Linda Pendleton; her Catherine Winter Mystery series, Shattered Lens; Fractured Image; Shifting Focus; Corn Silk Days, Iowa, 1862; The Bold Trail, A Samuel Garrison Western. She has won awards for her ebooks. Linda is a former member of The Authors Guild, and EPIC Authors. SAhe is currently a member of Sisters in Crime and Western Fictioneers. Four of her early ebooks won Epic Awards. Although most of her time is devoted to her love of writing, she also enjoys the exploration of her family's genealogical roots. Linda's book covers are designed with Judy Bullard. They have worked together for nearly two decades. Check out Judy's book cover gallery at http://www.customebookcovers.com. Judy is listed as one of Smashwords suggested cover designers.

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    Gold Rush - Linda Pendleton

    Gold Rush

    Three Years in California

    J. D. Borthwick, 1857

    Introduction by

    Linda Pendleton

    2011

    Originally Published in London in 1857, Three Years in California, John D. Borthwick.

    Public Domain.

    Gold Rush: Three Years in California, Introduction by Linda Pendleton, 2011

    Copyright © 2011 by Linda Pendleton, All Rights Reserved.

    Cover design by Linda Pendleton and Judy Bullard.

    Photo credit of Claude Chana Statue: Kurt Bertilson–http://photosofauburn.com/

    Used with Permission.

    Claude Chana Statue sculpted by Kenneth H. Fox, DDS., Auburn, CA.

    Published at Smashwords by Linda Pendleton

    Smashwords Edition, License Notes:

    This edition is licensed for your personal enjoyment only. This ebook may not be re-sold or given away to other people. If you would like to share this book with another person, please purchase an additional copy for each person. If you are reading this book and did not purchase it, or it was not purchased for your use only, then please return to Smashwords.com and purchase your own copy. Thank you for respecting the hard work and rights of the author.

    INTRODUCTION

    Two years before California became a state, and at a time when the population of the area was sparse, James W. Marshall discovered gold while constructing a saw mill along the American River in Coloma, northeast of present-day Sacramento.

    The January, 1848 gold discovery received little notice at the time, partly because many did not believe it, but that changed by late 1848 as word began to spread. Gold seekers came from all over America, overland or by sea, to San Francisco.

    The Gold Rush was on.

    Prior to the Gold Rush the population of San Francisco was less than 500 people. By the end of 1849, the population of San Francisco was approximately 25,000 and the surrounding area had grown to an estimated 100,000. The 1852 state population was more than 250,000, and many of those people were in Northern California, and numbers were more than 350,000 two years later.

    The excitement was not confined to the United States. France held lotteries and the holders of winning tickets were given a trip to the California gold fields. They came from all over. The French found their way to California, many from Canada, others from their homeland. In Great Britain, Ireland, Norway, to a certain extent in Germany, South America, China, Mexico, and even Australia, the adventurous and impoverished were pricking up their ears and laying their plans to head to California and find their gold treasure.

    Some came to take advantage of the need for services and businesses, not only in the Sierra foothill mining areas, but in San Francisco, Sacramento, Stockton, and other growing cities. Commerce would play an important part as communities were set up or growing with the influx of people. As communities sprung into being, so did the problems associated—government, or lack of—politics, fair or dirty—corruption and crime—social chaos and disorder—education and transportation, cultural diversity and prejudice—and many other challenges.

    John David Borthwick was one of the adventurous young men who came to California. He was born in Edinburgh, Scotland in 1824. Son of a prominent physician, J.D. as he was known, received a gentlemen’s and an artist’s education. When he turned 21 in 1845, he received a sizable inheritance and in 1847 he arrived in Canada and then on to the United States as far south as New Orleans and then to New York. While in New York, he was struck with the gold rush fever and in May 1850 he set out for California. He crossed Panama by river boat and foot and boarded a small sailing ship at Panama City for San Francisco.

    In the spring of 1851, Borthwick arrived in Sacramento by river steamboat and soon after took a wagon to Hangtown, today known as Placerville, the county seat of El Dorado County, California. At the time of the discovery of gold in nearby Coloma, California by James W. Marshall, the town was known as Dry Diggins, named after the manner in which miners moved carts of dry soil to running water to separate the gold from the soil. By the next year, the town earned its historical name, Hangtown, due to the numerous hangings that were taking place there. Placerville was a central hub for the Mother Lode region's mining operations and the town had many services, including transportation of people and goods, lodging, banking, and a general store.

    Soon the temperance league and a few local churches had begun to request that a friendlier name be bestowed upon their town but the name was not changed until 1854 when the City of Placerville was incorporated. At the time of its incorporation, Placerville was the third largest town in California. In 1857 the El Dorado county seat was moved from Coloma to Placerville, where it remains today.

    After a time mining in the Hangtown area, J. D. Borthwick found his artistic talents were more profitable and in demand than mining. Obtaining supplies from Sacramento, he traveled through the northern mining areas, including Marysville, Jacksonville, Downieville, Carson's Hill, and Placerville, sketching and observing.

    After learning through the London Newspaper that their American Frontier correspondent had returned to England, J. D. submitted a drawing and an article, and offered to continue as correspondent for the London paper. He documented the 1852 floods, passing through Sacramento at a time when boats were used on the streets and when the chief consolation was calculating the number of rats that had been drowned.

    J. D. sailed for Australia in 1853, and returned to Scotland via Panama in 1856. In 1857, he published materials from his California travels in Harper's Weekly, and in California Magazine. That same year his book, Three Years in California, was published and remains one of the classic first-person accounts of the California Gold Rush period.

    In his book, J.D. devotes much attention to social life within the mining camps as well as mining techniques, crime and living conditions, both in the mining camps and towns, the American, Mexican, Chinese, French, Cornish, Jewish, Chilian, and other ethnic groups, their holidays, celebrations, and public entertainments. His original book was illustrated with eight of his own lithographs which are considered the most realistic of the period.

    In California over a ten year period from the first discovery of gold in 1848, launching the '49 Gold Rush, more than 775 million dollars was found in gold in California mines. By the end of the nineteenth century it is said several billion dollars worth of gold came out of California mines.

    According to the California State Parks Department, the non-Indian population of California in 1848 when James W. Marshall discovered gold at Sutter's Mill in Coloma, the state population was 14,000. By the end of 1849, the population had risen to nearly 100,000 and by 1852 it was some 250,000. The gold fever brought many Americans and immigrants looking for riches and opportunity. And many found it, not always in prospecting, but through commerce for the bulging and needy population.

    As San Francisco flourished as a great port of entry for the Pacific Coast, facilities for shipping rapidly multiplied in the bay area and before long, inland to Sacramento.

    Some records and reports show that gold was discovered for the second time when Claude Chana discovered gold in the streambed of what is now Auburn Ravine Creek in the town of Auburn. Now the county seat of Placer County, Auburn was founded at the beginning of the California Gold Rush in 1849, following his discovery. The 45 ton statue of Claude Chana, sculpted by Auburn dentist, Kenneth H. Fox for the citizens of Auburn, shown on the cover of my book, sits at the approximate place where Chana is said to have discovered gold. The spot is off Interstate 80 at Maple Street, the entrance to Old Town Auburn and close to State Highway 49. The statue sits approximately twenty miles north of Coloma where Marshall found the first gold at Sutter’s Mill.

    In 1869, one of the largest gold nuggets ever discovered in California was found at the Monumental Mine near Sierra Buttes north of Sacramento and it weighed in at 106 pounds. Eleven mines and arrastras were situated in and around the Buttes.

    California became a state of the Union in 1850, being the 31st state and entered the Union as a free, non-slavery state by the Compromise of 1850. Prior to statehood, the first State Constitutional Convention was held in 1849 in Monterey. During the convention 48 delegates worked diligently to write California's first constitution as well as to build a state infrastructure from scratch. San Jose was the first Capital but after a harsh wet winter of '50-'51 and because it did not have proper facilities, it moved to Vallejo. Finding Vallejo also unsatisfactory, the Capital was moved a short distance away to town of Benicia, situated inland on the bay, and strategically positioned between the Gold Rush territory of the Sierra Foothills and the financial port of San Francisco. Benicia became a busy port of call and a station for the ferry where riders could go from Martinez, on to Oakland, and then ferry to San Francisco.

    But again, after a short time, it was believed more space was needed for a Capitol building and in 1854 the decision was made to move further inland on the Sacramento River Delta to the riverside port of Sacramento, where it is today.

    Sacramento was where John Sutter had a farm and a fort. Sutter's Fort had played a role in the Bear Flag Revolt of 1846, when control of California was the point of dissension.

    John Sutter Jr., in the absence of his father, founded the town of Sacramento, a short distance from Sutter's Fort.

    From the time California set out to become a state in 1849, the Greek word, Eureka, which means I have found it, was the state motto. Of course, it is assumed that Eureka refers to the discovery of gold.

    The Chinese immigrants were very much a part of the gold rush days and the building of the railroads, and even in positions of government service. James Martin Peebles, (Seers of the Ages, 1869) wrote of meeting a Chinese man while he was in California during that time. In 1861, at Placerville, introduced to Le Can, a learned Mandarin, who graduated from a Chinese University, and was then employed as interpreter in the courts of California. Highly intelligent, he was proud of his national literature.

    J.D. Borthwick wrote, The Americans are often accused of boasting—perhaps deservedly so; but there certainly are many things in the history of California of which they may justly be proud, having transformed her, as they did so suddenly, from a wilderness into a country in which most of the luxuries of life were procurable; and a fair instance of the bold and prompt spirit of commercial enterprise by which this was accomplished, was seen in the fact that, from the earliest days of her settlement, California had as good means of both ocean and inland steam-communication as any of the oldest countries in the world.

    Having been born in California, I know well the beauty of the state, and how it offers a variety of terrain, from the coastal waters of the Pacific Ocean and the coastal mountains, to the inland Sierra Nevada mountain range rising up to 14,505 feet of Mt. Whitney, the highest summit in the contiguous United States, and to the more arid desert lands of the Mojave and the contrast of the lowest point of Death Valley at 282 feet below sea level. We have mountains capped with winter's snow, crystal clear lakes, rushing mountain streams and rivers, the lush forests with ferns, tall pines and Redwoods, the Oak covered foothills, colorful rose gardens and vegetable gardens, green grass and desert cacti, flowering fruit trees and grape vines, coastal cliffs and sandy beaches, and even with all that within the borders of California, we also have a history rich in drama.

    Even though more than one hundred and sixty years have passed since J.D. Borthwick and thousands of others set foot onto the rich California soil and the population since those early days of the '49 Gold Rush has tremendously increased, California still holds a specialness, a uniqueness it has always had.

    Borthwick’s book has gems of information about the pioneers of California. As an artist, he was able to also use his words to paint fascinating pictures of the personalities and actions of many people who settled in California during the days of the '49 Gold Rush. Nearly within every page I read, I learned something interesting about those people, the culture of the time, the hardships they faced, their successes, their failures, the humor, their talents, the scoundrels and villains, the grief, and the every day life during the mid-1800s. And because John Borthwick lived it, he was able to colorfully record how a state came into being with diverse cultures mixing and finding their way in new environments, and reaching for their dreams. Some achieved their dreams, others enriched theirs, and still others failed and went on to other adventures.

    And gold? Yes, it is still here in California.

    In the summer of 2008, a teenager, Jacob Hopkins, who shares a hobby of gold prospecting with his father and older brother, discovered a smooth rock with six ounces of gold while fishing at Rollins Lake in Nevada County near Grass Valley. The local teenager’s find was worth $5,500. When he spotted its shine near the edge of the water, he is quoted as saying, I went out there and grabbed it, and I was like ‘oh my gosh that can’t be gold—it is.

    Interesting enough, his father, Mike Hopkins, relates to his son’s discovery as he had a similar experience twenty-six years ago when he was a teenager. I was going to go slew some gold to go to the senior prom, and about second shovel a four ounce gold nugget rolled right in the tip of my shovel.

    Well, who knows?

    Maybe there are more gold nuggets yet to be discovered.

    ~Linda Pendleton

    2011, Northern California

    CHAPTER ONE

    CALIFORNIA FEVER IN THE STATES--THE START--NEW YORK TO PANAMA--SHIPBOARD--CHARGRES--CROSSING THE ISTHMUS--THE RIVER--CRUCES--GORGONA.

    ABOUT the beginning of the year 1851, the rage for emigration to California from the United States was at its height. All sorts and conditions of men, old, young, and middle-aged, allured by the hope of acquiring sudden wealth, and fascinated with the adventure and excitement of a life in California, were relinquishing their existing pursuits and associations to commence a totally new existence in the land of gold.

    The rush of eager gold-hunters was so great, that the Panama Steamship Company's office in New York used to be perfectly mobbed for a day and a night previous to the day appointed for selling tickets for their steamers. Sailing vessels were dispatched for Chagres almost daily, carrying crowds of passengers, while numbers went by the different routes through Mexico, and others chose the easier, but more tedious, passage round Cape Horn.

    The emigration from the Western States was naturally very large, the inhabitants being a class of men whose lives are spent in clearing the wild forests of the West, and gradually driving the Indian from his hunting-ground.

    Of these western-frontier men it is often said, that they are never satisfied if there is any white man between them and sundown. They are constantly moving westward; for as the wild Indian is forced to retire before them, so they, in their turn, shrinking from the signs of civilisation which their own labours cause to appear around them, have to plunge deeper into the forest, in search of that wild border-life which has such charms for all who have ever experienced it.

    To men of this sort, the accounts of such a country as California, thousands of miles to the westward of them, were peculiarly attractive; and so great was the emigration, that many parts of the Western States were nearly depopulated. The route followed by these people was that overland, across the plains, which was the most congenial to their tastes, and the most convenient for them, as, besides being already so far to the westward, they were also provided with the necessary wagons and oxen for the journey. For the sake of mutual protection against the Indians, they travelled in trains of a dozen or more wagons, carrying the women and children and provisions, accompanied by a proportionate number of men, some on horses or mules, and others on foot.

    In May 1851, I happened to be residing in New York, and was seized with the California fever. My preparations were very soon made, and a day or two afterwards I found myself on board a small barque about to sail for Chagres with a load of California emigrants. Our vessel was little more than two hundred tons, and was entirely devoted to the accommodation of passengers. The ballast was covered with a temporary deck, and the whole interior of the ship formed a saloon, round which were built three tiers of berths: a very rough extempore table and benches completed the furniture. There was no invidious distinction of cabin and steerage passengers--in fact, excepting the captain's room, there was nothing which could be called a cabin in the ship. But all were in good spirits, and so much engrossed with thoughts of California that there was little disposition to grumble at the rough-and-ready style of our accommodation. For my own part, I knew I should have to rough it in California, and felt that I might just as well begin at once as wait till I got there.

    We numbered about sixty passengers, and a nice assortment we were. The majority, of course, were Americans, and were from all parts of the Union; the rest were English, French, and German. We had representatives of nearly every trade, besides farmers, engineers, lawyers, doctors, merchants, and nondescript young men.

    The first day out we had fine weather, with just sea enough to afford the uninitiated an opportunity of discovering the difference between the lee and the weather side of the ship. The second day we had a fresh breeze, which towards night blew a gale, and for a couple of days we were compelled to lay to.

    The greater part of the passengers, being from the interior of the country, had never seen the ocean before, and a gale of wind was a thing they did not understand at all. Those who were not too sick to be able to form an opinion on the subject, were frightened out of their senses, and imagined that all manner of dreadful things were going to happen to the ship. The first night of the gale, I was awoke by an old fool shouting frantically to the company in general, to get up and save the ship, because he heard the water rushing into her, and we should sink in a few minutes. He was very emphatically cursed for his trouble by those whose slumbers he had disturbed, and told to hold his tongue, and let those sleep who could, if he were unable to do so himself.

    It was certainly, however, not very easy to sleep that night. The ship was very crank, and but few of the party had taken the precaution to make fast their luggage; the consequence was, that boxes and chests of all sizes, besides casks of provisions, and other ship's stores, which had got adrift, were cruising about promiscuously, threatening to smash up the flimsy framework on which our berths were built, and endangering the limbs of any one who should venture to turn out.

    In the morning we found that the cook's galley had fetched way, and the stove was rendered useless; the steward and waiters--landlubbers who were only working their passage to Chagres--were as sick as the sickest, and so the prospect for breakfast was by no means encouraging. However, there were not more than half-a-dozen of us who could eat anything, or could even stand on deck; so we roughed it out on cold beef, hard bread, and brandy-and-water.

    The sea was not very high, and the ship lay to comfortably and dry; but, in the evening, some of the poor wretches below had worked themselves up to desperation, being sure, every time the ship laid over, that she was never coming up again. At last, one man, who could stand it no longer, jumped out of his berth, and, going down on his knees, commenced clapping his hands, and uttering the most dismal howls and groans, interspersed with disjointed fragments of prayers. He called on all hands to join him; but it was not a form of worship to which many seemed to be accustomed, for only two men responded to his call. He very kindly consigned all the rest of the company to a place which I trust none of us may reach, and prayed that for the sake of the three righteous men--himself and the other two--the ship might be saved. They continued for about an hour, clapping their hands as if applauding, and crying and groaning most piteously--so bereft of sense, by fear, that they seemed not to know the meaning of their incoherent exclamations. The captain, however, at last succeeded in persuading them that there was no danger, and they gradually cooled down, to the great relief of the rest of the passengers.

    The next day we had better weather, but the sick-list was as large as ever, and we had to mess again on whatever raw materials we could lay our hands on--red--herrings, onions, ham, and biscuit.

    We deposed the steward as a useless vagabond, and appointed three passengers to fill his place, after which we fared a little better--in fact, as well as the provisions at our command would allow. No one grumbled, excepting a few of the lowest class of men in the party, who had very likely never been used to such good living ashore.

    When we got into the trade-winds we had delightful weather, very hot, but with a strong breeze at night, rendering it sufficiently cool to sleep in comfort. The all-engrossing subject of conversation, and of meditation, was of course California, and the heaps of gold we were all to find there. As we had secured our passage only as far as Chagres, our progress from that point to San Francisco was also a matter of constant discussion. We all knew that every steamer to leave Panama, for months to come, was already full, and that hundreds of men were waiting there to take advantage of any opportunity that might occur of reaching San Francisco; but among our passengers there were very few who were travelling in company; they were mostly all isolated individuals, each on his own hook, and every one was perfectly confident that he at least would have no trouble in getting along, whatever might be the fate of the rest of the crowd.

    We added to the delicacies of our bill of fare occasionally by killing dolphins. They are very good eating, and afford capital sport. They come in small shoals of a dozen or so, and amuse themselves by playing about before the bows of the vessel, when, getting down into the martingale under the bowsprit, one takes the opportunity to let drive at them with the grains, a small five-pronged harpoon.

    The dolphin, by the way, is most outrageously and systematically libelled. Instead of being the horrid, big-headed, crooked-backed monster which it is generally represented, it is the most elegant and highly-finished fish that swims.

    For three or four days before reaching Chagres, all hands were busy packing up, and firing off and reloading pistols; for a revolver and a bowie-knife were considered the first items in a California outfit. We soon assumed a warlike appearance, and though many of the party had probably never handled a pistol in their lives before, they tried to wear their weapons in a negligé style, as if they never had been used to go without them.

    There were now also great consultations as to what sort of hats, coats, and boots, should be worn in crossing the Isthmus. Wondrous accounts constantly appeared in the New York papers of the dangers and difficulties of these few miles of land-and-river travel, and most of the passengers, before leaving New York, had been humbugged into buying all manner of absurd and useless articles, many of them made of india-rubber, which they had been assured, and consequently believed, were absolutely necessary. But how to carry them all, or even how to use them, was the main difficulty, and would indeed have puzzled much cleverer men.

    Some were equipped with pots, pans, kettles, drinking-cups, knives and forks, spoons, pocket-filters (for they had been told that the water on the Isthmus was very dirty), india-rubber contrivances, which an ingenious man, with a powerful imagination and strong lungs, could blow up and convert into a bed, a boat, or a tent--bottles of cholera preventive, boxes of pills for curing every disease to which human nature is liable; and some men, in addition to all this, determined to be prepared to combat danger in every shape, bade defiance to the waters of the Chagres river by buckling on india-rubber life-preservers.

    Others of the party, who were older travellers, and who held all such accoutrements in utter contempt, had merely a small valise with a few necessary articles of clothing, an oil-skin coat, and, very probably, a pistol stowed away on some part of their person, which would be pretty sure to go off when occasion required, but not before.

    At last, after twenty days' passage from New York, we made Chagres, and got up to the anchorage towards evening. The scenery was very beautiful. We lay about three-quarters of a mile from shore, in a small bay enclosed by high bluffs, completely covered with dense foliage of every shade of green.

    We had but little time, however, to enjoy the scenery that evening, as we had scarcely anchored when the rain began to come down in true tropical style; every drop was a bucketful. The thunder and lightning were terrific, and in good keeping with the rain, which is one of the things for which Chagres is celebrated. Its character as a sickly wretched place was so well known that none of us went ashore that night; we all preferred sleeping aboard ship.

    It was very amusing to watch the change which had been coming over some of the men on board. They seemed to shrink within themselves, and to wish to avoid being included in any of the small parties which were being formed to make the passage up the river. They were those who had provided themselves with innumerable contrivances for the protection of their precious persons against sun, wind, and rain, also with extraordinary assortments of very untempting-looking provisions, and who were completely equipped with pistols, knives, and other warlike implements. They were like so many Robinson Crusoes, ready to be put ashore on a desert island; and they seemed to imagine themselves to be in just such a predicament, fearful, at the same time, that companionship with any one not provided with the same amount of rubbish as themselves, might involve their losing the exclusive benefit of what they supposed so absolutely necessary. I actually heard one of them refuse another man a chew of tobacco, saying he guessed he had no more than what he could use himself.

    The men of this sort, of whom I am happy to say there were not many, offered a striking contrast to the rest in another respect. On arriving at Chagres they became quite dejected and sulky, and seemed to be oppressed with anxiety, while the others were in a wild state of delight at having finished a tedious passage, and in anticipation of the novelty and excitement of crossing the Isthmus.

    In the morning several shore-boats, all pulled by Americans, came off to take us ashore. The landing here is rather dangerous. There is generally a very heavy swell, causing vessels to roll so much that getting into a small boat alongside is a matter of considerable difficulty; and at the mouth of the river is a bar, on which are immense rollers, requiring good management to get over them in safety.

    We went ashore in torrents of rain, and when landed with our baggage on the muddy bank of the Chagres river, all as wet as if we had swam ashore, we were immediately beset by crowds of boatmen, Americans, natives, and Jamaica niggers, all endeavouring to make a bargain with us for the passage up the river to Cruces.

    The town of Chagres is built on each side of the river, and consists of a few miserable cane-and-mud huts, with one or two equally wretched-looking wooden houses, which were hotels kept by Americans. On the top of the bluff, on the south side of the river, are the ruins of an old Spanish castle, which look very picturesque, almost concealed by the luxurious growth of trees and creepers around them.

    The

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