From Brunei and Beyond: The Gaijin Girl's Guide to Asian Cuisine

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From Brunei and Beyond:

The Gaijin Girl’s Guide to Asian Cuisine

Published by Janet Clarke at Smashwords

Copyright 2006 Janet E. Clarke

Smashwords Edition, License Notes

This ebook is licensed for your personal enjoyment only. This ebook may not be re-sold or given away to other people. If you would like to share this book with another person, please purchase an additional copy for each person. If you’re reading this book and did not purchase it, or it was not purchased for your use only, then please return to Smashwords.com and purchase your own copy.

Thank you for respecting the hard work of this author.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Many thanks to the myriad people who helped guide my first stumbling steps through the world of Asian Cuisine; friends and acquaintances who suffered through the countless translations, explanations

…and above all, the tastings!

Special thanks to the following individuals, who assisted in the compilation of this guide:

Kristen and Mike Santos (Philippines)

Karen Shih (Philippines)

Kathy H. Song (Korea)

Tiffany Ho (Singapore)

Julian Teoh (Malaysia)

Christine Leong (Malaysia)

All maps and flags contained in this book provided courtesy of the CIA World Factbook.

And thanks to Phil, who put up with endless discussions

about Baluut, Durian and other unmentionables

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction

Eating on the Web (Without Getting Messy)

Geography 101

Musings on Vegan/Vegetarianism

The Countries

Brunei

Cambodia

China

Hong Kong

Indonesia

Japan

Korea (North and South)

Laos

Macau

Malaysia

Mongolia

Myanamar (Burma)

Philippines

Singapore

Taiwan

Thailand

Tibet

Timor Leste

Vietnam

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Appendices

Sweet Things (including a few liquid refreshments)

Ais Ais Baby

Know Your Jellies

Fermented Foods and Libations

Veggies, Fruits and Flavors

Veggies and Nuts

Seasonings & Spices

Fruity Goodness (Fruits from Asia)

Using Your Noodle: A Zoology of Asian Noodles – from Lo Mein to Maggi Mee.

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Introduction

I love Asian food. Exotic, authentic Asian cuisine - complete with mystery ingredients, unpronounceable names and unfamiliar, unexplored strange new tastes. Standard takeout, sanitized for the American palate? Not for me. Because Lo Mein is for the unadventurous…and life is too short to eat familiar food.

For me, Asian food is an obsession - one that began several years prior, sparked by a chance trip to Chinatown. The groundwork for this book was already in place: growing up, I had been exposed to a multitude of ethnic food, and loved sushi with a passion. I’m also not squeamish, which helps. New York has been my home for over a decade, and I’d been to Chinatown many times. I don’t know what made that day different, but I found myself looking at the neighborhood with new fascination, for here was a world I knew nothing about. Winding streets full of unidentified foods and flavors: little triangular packets of stuffed banana leaves in one window, next to what appeared to be barbequed chicken feet. Across the way - a bakery selling soft, translucent pastries alongside florescent tea with….bubbles in them? This wasn’t my local neighborhood takeout – and it begged to be explored.

Back home, I researched the web for information. There wasn’t much - at least for English speakers. There were shock value sites, written in the humorous ‘can-you-believe-they-eat-this’ vein. What I didn’t find was a definitive Western Guide to Asian Food. I didn’t want to laugh at people eating grasshoppers – I wanted to join them. To fill the gap this book was born, starting out life as a personal website, entitled the Gaijin Girl’s Guide to Chinatown. (Why Gaijin vs. Gweilo? Primarily because Japanese cuisine had been my first love - long before the discoveries on Canal Street piqued my interest. And as the explorations progressed over time, more and more asian delicacies and regions became encompassed in the search…including Japanese specialties such as onigiri, natto and more.)

At the outset, the site was conceived as little more than a high-tech diary – a method of organizing and tracking foods that I had sampled, and recording my observations. It soon took on a life of its own, and I began to view it as a tool for sharing my experiences and explorations online – not to mention an opportunity to communicate with others throughout the globe, learning first hand what made for a decent bowl of laksa, or the subtle distinctions between the various forms of kueh. (After all, there’s only so much that one can learn on Canal Street…as inspirational a start as it may be!) As my knowledge grew, so did a hunger to learn more - branching out inevitably into every source of possible information: including published articles, cookbooks, conversations with local foodies and (whenever possible) personally conducted taste tests.

The concept has continued to mutate, arriving now at this latest incarnation. Please note - there are no recipes to be found in this book. I’m an eater - not a cook. The book currently in your hands is best viewed as a field guide, an introduction to the lesser-known worlds of Asian food - meant to whet your appetite (in more ways than one) for further personal research. And far be it from me to editorialize. Working from the premise that each person’s tastes are different—and that it’s better try for oneself— this book will not be used as a soapbox for my personal picks and pans of Asian Cuisine. Except for the rare instance where I consider an item too wonderful to pass up, the Guide will offer just the facts, ma’am. Nothing more - and nothing less.

As you read, be aware that no country is an island (well, metaphorically speaking, anyway). Cuisines have a habit of crossing borders – resulting in duplications of names, recipes and flavors across country lines. If you enjoy Indonesian, make sure to sample Malaysian and Singaporean cuisine as well. And if the Malaysian iced dessert ABC suits your tastes, travel to the east is clearly in order – both to Japan (An Mitsu) and Korean (Pat Bing Su.)

So how to read the Guide? Flip through the book in any order, sampling and following your interests wherever they lead (a technique familiar to anyone from the internet generation.) Then head out and sample foods that strike your fancy.

A last word of advice – don’t stop with my suggestions. Find exotic foods that are not covered in these pages. Blaze new territory, sample new tastes. Because it’s the exploration and the discovery that makes it so worthwhile. If the contents of the Guide spur you to new interests, leading you towards that next step in learning about a new cuisine…well, then – I’ll have done my job.

--Janet E. Clarke

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Eating on the Web

(Without Getting Messy)

It can be hard researching Asian cuisine when all you speak is English.

Thank God for the internet - that revolutionary, international tool of communication. Driven by the proliferation of personal web sites, and the instant gratification of hyperlink text, the web has made information truly free – releasing an entire generation of researchers from the slow process/prison of library index cards, microfiche and hard cover books. Unfortunately, it’s still language specific - a fact which remains as a major barrier/stumbling block for multi-cultural exploration (the rudimentary abilities of Babel Fish not withstanding.)

The language barrier can be formidable for a number of reasons. For the more rarified cuisines, spelling is often non-standardized. Take for example, Korean raw beef. Depending on the translation, the dish is known on English websites as Yuke, Yuk Hoe – or even Hyoo-kwe.

There is also a problem with the target audience. In regards to Asian cuisine, the average Westerner is a neophyte - looking for basic information. The available websites cater to that need, resulting in content dumbed down to the lowest common denominator. The result – copious information on lo mein, but less data on local variations of Nasi Lemak, or Roti John. Often, the most authentic, information-rich websites are only available in the native language.

This last is a sticking point which has begun to change as the internet has evolved, aged and adapted. From Wikipedia to country specific sites such as www.thaitable.com, a number of websites have risen to the challenge, providing information both generalized and specific. Best of all, access to these sites are free – information, as it was meant to be!

What follows is a list of some of the better tools currently on the web. As you progress, you will discover that researching Asian cuisine is an evolving process, similar to a jigsaw puzzle. You won’t find all the details in one place – tangents can be your best friend. Like picking at a stray thread of yarn, research into one facet of a cuisine often results in new leads, and entries into worlds of information previously unknown. So dive in, and blaze your own territory. But be warned – it’s an extremely addictive process. You won’t be resurfacing for quite some time.

Chowhound

A discussion group specific to New York City (and the surrounding areas.). A great source for where to find the best eats in all five boroughs – from Bainbridge in the Bronx to the outskirts of Queens. www.chowhound.com

Egullet

The international community of foodies. With scheduled road trips and a calendar of events, there’s no better place to discuss your passion. But perhaps the best spot on Egullet are the forums, with topics sorted both by geography and food type (beverages, pastries, etc.) www.egullet.org

Wikipedia

A collaborative treasure trove of information. Touching on every topic in the world, this online encyclopedia is growing at a phenomenal rate. Open sourced and free for the taking, content in Wikipedia is connected via hyperlink for blazingly quick transitions and tangents. No – it’s not always 100% accurate, but neither is printed material. And unlike hardcopy publishing, error are easily corrected…with just the click of a button. Possibly the best research tool in history, Wikipedia is adult continuing education – done right. www.wikipedia.org

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Geography 101

(a.k.a. You Are Here)

Home to 60% of the world’s population, Asia is big – really big.

Nor are its boundaries readily apparent. Bordered to the west by Europe, Asia is not geographically a continent. Rather, it comprises a subsection of the continent known as Eurasia, with borders drawn along both political and cultural lines. Depending on the world model referenced, Asia can be further divided into 5-6 subsections, each of which is even more loosely defined.

What follows is a brief primer on the geographical realities of Asia – what countries fall under its umbrella, where they lie, and how they may be classified to best understand their cultural and culinary cross influences.

Despite elementary school experiences to the contrary, geography can be fascinating--as well as enlightening—especially for anyone whose current understanding of Asia is limited to China, Japan and Other. (You know who you are.) If this describes you, this most rudimentary of primers is essential – because if you’re going to eat the food, you oughta know where it came from.

While definitions vary, Asia can generally be divided into six subsections, which in total encompass an area much more vast than what is normally thought of as Asia by Westerners (Yes Virginia, India is part of Asia.)

The categories are as follows:

Central Asia

Kazakhstan

Krgyzstan

Tajikistan

Turkmenistan

Uzbekistan

North Asia

Siberia

Southeast Asia

Brunei

Cambodia

Indonesia

Laos

Malaysia

Myanmar (Burma)

Philippines

Singapore

Thailand (Siam)

Timor Leste (East Timor)

Vietnam

South Asia

Also known as the Indian subcontinent

Bangladesh

Bhutan

India

Maldives

Nepal

Pakistan

Sri Lanka

East Asia

China*

Japan

Korea (North/South)

Mongolia**

* Including Chinese occupied territories such as:

Macao and Hong Kong (Special Administrative Regions)

Tibet (Autonomous Region)

Taiwan (Autonomous, disputed Territory)

Inner Mongolia (Autonomous Region)

** Sometimes classified as Central Asia

Southwest Asia

Aka: The Middle East

Afghanistan

Armenia

Azerbaijan

Bahrain

Cyprus

Egypt (Sinai Peninsula)

Gaza Strip

Georgia

Iran

Iraq

Israel

Jordan

Kuwait

Lebanon

Oman

Qatar

Saudi Arabia

Syria

Turkey (Anatolia section)

United Arab Emirates

West Bank

Yemen

A pretty diverse group - but scratch the surface, and some culinary similarities become evident. Rice, of course, is the ubiquitous staple grain. Curry is a common denominator as well. The end result may vary depending upon the availability of seasonings and local climate, but versions of curry are served throughout Asia – from Egypt to India, to Thailand and beyond..it’s even pretty popular in Japan.

Flavor and philosophy are also unifying factors. From Sichuan to the Seeni Sambol relish of Sri Lanka, many eastern cuisines strive to create a balance of sweet/salty/hot/sour in their recipes. Also predominant is the concept of food as medicine. From the Ayurvedic diet of India to Chinese Tong Shui soups, food in Asia is used to heal as well as nourish.

The variety of eastern cuisine can also serve as a sociological lesson for Americans, who tend to view foreign countries as homogeneous and self-contained. (A natural conclusion to draw, given the geographical isolation of the North American continent.) But in Asia the impact of cross-cultural influence—both on food and ethnic identity—is vast. One striking example of the resulting fusion is Burmese/Myanmar cuisine, a true hybrid of Indian and Chinese cooking. In Myanmar kitchens, noodles combine with Indian flavored sauces, which in turn are soaked up by thousand layer bread (the Burmese equivalent of Indian parathas.) Due to past European colonization, western influences also exist…ranging from the Spanish/Chinese fusion of the Philippines to the Portuguese ancestry of Macau. In culture, all things are intertwined. By understanding food, one gains a lesson in history as well.

A truly exhaustive book would cover the full breadth of Asia, exploring the culinary landscape from the shores of Kuwait to the tip of Siberia. A noble goal – but that is not this book….and Kazakhstan will have to wait for another day. In the interest of space, the focus here is narrower—covering the more stereotypically ‘Asian’ region of East and Southeast Asia.

As you read, bear in mind that the lines between cuisines are not always clear or sharp. Take—for example—the nations of Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia and Brunei. Sambal is used as a condiment throughout the region, and many popular street foods can be found in all four countries. To avoid repetition, dishes will rarely be mentioned more than once. Therefore, the assumption should not be made that a recipe is exclusive to one country. If a dish is not mentioned in one chapter, it may be described elsewhere. In cuisines, one finds many related concepts – and a good deal of overlap.

But enough of the prelude, and onto the main course. The time has come to turn the page, and dive into the culinary treasures of Japan, Korea, Singapore and more. In these pages, there’s more than enough here to keep you occupied. But don’t forget that it's just the beginning of the journey. For the adventurous, there’s a whole world of food out there to explore.

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Musings on Vegan and Vegetarianism – A Personal Journey

When I first began exploring the world of Asian Cuisine, I was an unabashed omnivore. My favorite food? Sashimi. Other preferences included steak tartar and Soon Dae – a Korean delicacy also known as Blood Sausage.

Obviously, there’s plenty of meat to be found in Asian Cuisine – some served as an essential part of the recipe (such as Soon Dae, and a number of the dishes found in Mongolia or Tibet). For other meals, meat serves as an optional though common ingredient – used as filler in dumplings, or added to rice, curries and hot pots. Fused with the flavors of Asia’s many cultures/cuisines, the result is usually quite tasty. I should know – I’ve tried most of it personally.

Speaking for myself, I love Asian Cuisine for many reasons. Top on that list is the adventure of trying something new – the experience of intense, exotic flavors, and the chance to step outside the common culinary experiences normally found in the western hemisphere. Envisoned as a celebration of what authentic Asian Cuisine has to offer, the goal of From Brunei is to convey that sense of adventure to others…providing readers with a foundation of knowledge to be used as a springboard for their own culinary journeys of discovery. As such, this book is designed to be both objective and comprehensive…listing dishes both carnivorous and vegetarian without prejudice or editorial comment.

Though not designed as a vehicle for my political views, From Brunei is a reflection of my personal culinary journey. As such, it would be remiss not to add a few words about veganism – a philosophy which I have come to both embrace and respect.

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In retrospect, my transition to veganism is hardly surprising. An animal lover from day one, I grew up with dogs – my childhood shared by two miniature poodles - both named Pepe. Then came others – including Elsa (the German Shepherd) Scarlett (the Doberman), Max and Gypsy. Rarely have I been without canine companionship. Then too, a portion of my adult life has been spent working for canine welfare – driving for rescue groups and volunteering at the local animal shelter on weekends (at least, when not searching for a new restaurant to explore.)

And undoubtedly, it’s that aspect of my life that’s led me to a vegetarian (and ultimately vegan) lifestyle. Though not widespread, some Asian cultures do view dogs as food. And though shocking to westerners, is such a practice objectively worse than eating pig, an arguably more intelligent animal? (Sorry, Max!)

Over time, I examined the issues – and gradually began to realize the contradiction inherent in protecting one’s companion animals – only to come home to a dish of Beef Rendang…no matter how delicious it might be. Any line I attempted to draw between equally sentient species – defining some as untouchable and others as fodder for food – seemed entirely arbitrary. Ultimately, the logic seemed inescapable, and I found myself facing a choice: respect animals as a group, or not at all. Personally, I chose the former – transitioning over time from pescetarian to vegetarianism and finally veganism.

Fortunately for me, Asian Cuisine and veganism go together quite well (exceptions such as Soon Dae notwithstanding.) Though many dishes are fish based, substitutions do exist. Then there are the vegetable curries, the noodles, the dumplings…and desserts ranging from coconut milk confectionaries to glutinous rice dough filled with sweet bean paste. All vegan friendly – and irresistibly delicious. Though now vegetable based, sushi is still my favorite meal…with no flavor sacrificed in the process. (As long as it’s crunchy and the ume paste is there, all is well with the world.) If anything, I’ve found exotic cuisine and vegetarianism to have a wonderfully symbiotic relationship. By themselves, rice, vegetables and soy would be intolerably bland….but perfect when mixed with spices and seasonings from the Asian continent.

As for readers of From Brunei – it’s my sincere hope that this book is the start of a never-ending culinary journey – delving ever deeper into new cuisines…both Asian and other. (Why stop with Asian, when there’s the Carribean, Africa and other regions to explore?) Should you wish to pursue vegetarianism as well, following are a list of books that you may find of interest. I know that I did.

Animal Liberation (Peter Singer)

Slaughterhouse (Gail A. Eisnitz)

Vegan Freak: Being Vegan in a Non-Vegan World (Bob and Jenna Torres)

Vegan: the New Ethics of Eating (Erik Marcus)

But no matter your tastes or dietary choices, enjoy the journey into Asian Cuisine.

And always remember…life’s too short to eat familiar food!

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Brunei

Negara Brunei Darussalam

(The Sultanate of Brunei)

The Primer

For Starters

Located on the island of Borneo, the country of Brunei is one of the smallest nations in Southeast Asia, covering slightly less landmass than the state of Delaware. In the past few centuries, Brunei (officially known as the Sultanate of Brunei) has gone through many changes. Once in control of the southern Philippines and the island of Borneo, the nation has seen its influence diminish through the years – even serving as a British protectorate from 1888-1984. Surrounded on all sides by Malaysia, Brunei now consists of two unconnected sections – the majority of the population located in the western area (also the seat of capital Bandar Seri Begawan), with the more isolated, mountainous district of Temburong to the East.

Despite such turns of fate, what has not changed is the ultimate seat of power. An Islamic monarchy, Brunei has been ruled by the same royal