Smart Guide Italy: Rome & Lazio: Smart Guide Italy, #3
By Alexei Cohen
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About this ebook
Smart Guide: Rome & Lazio is packed with advice and tips that will help newcomers and veteran travelers get the most from their visit to the Eternal City. The guide also includes dozens of fascinating locations in Northern and Southern Lazio that are off the beaten tourist path. Enjoy the journey.
Smart Guide is the first independent travel publisher to offer digital guides to all of Italy's regions. We also operate a convenient online accommodation service which helps travelers get an insider's perspective on Italy, lower their CO2 impact and save substantially.
Other titles in the Smart Guide series:
Florence & Tuscany
Milan & Lombardy
Venice & Veneto
Naples & Campania
Turin, Piedmont & Aosta Valley
Grand Tour: Rome, Florence, Venice & Naples
Alexei Cohen
I fell in love with Italy while watching the movie La Strada in the basement of my university library. Since then I have met and married an Italian, written and edited several guides and enjoyed a lot of pasta, wine and gelato. I live with my family on the outskirts of Rome and cultivate my passion for Italy a little more everyday. Moon Rome, Florence & Venice is my latest book and a result of months of exploration. I look forward to sharing what I have discovered and meeting travelers in Rome to swap stories over a cappuccino.
Read more from Alexei Cohen
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Smart Guide Italy - Alexei Cohen
Smart Guide Italy: Rome & Lazio
2014 edition
Published by:
Smart Guides
Via Antonio Schivardi 51
00144 Rome, Italy
Smashwords Edition
Copyright 2014 Alexei Cohen
License Notes
This ebook is licensed for your personal enjoyment. It may not be re-sold, given away, transmitted or reproduced without permission of the publisher. If you would like to share this book with another person please purchase an additional copy.
The authors of this book have strived to create the most accurate and up-to-date guide possible. That doesn’t mean we’re perfect. Some details such as opening hours, prices and telephone numbers may change. If you come across such a discrepancy or would like to share your travel experiences write to us at smartguide.
tmp_c61bec7c0e9375605b0ad686253a9985_hsfUkB_html_4c568933.jpgPreface
Introducing Rome
Quickfacts
What’s New?
Planning
When to go | What to bring | Climate | Etiquette
Practicalities
Using this guide | Hours | Prices | Saving | Safety
What’s Happening?
Spring | Summer | Fall | Winter
Travelers Beware
A Brief History
Experiencing Rome
Sightseeing Strategies
Before | After arriving
Navigating the City
Going Local
What to say | What to taste | What to do | What to expect
Top Stops
Itineraries
Exploring Rome
Neighborhoods
Testaccio and Aventino
Forum
Trastevere
Campo De’ Fiori and Piazza Navona
Trident
Vatican
Beyond Rome
Appia Antica
Garbatella
EUR
Ostia Antica
Living Rome
Live Music
Night Clubs
Wine Bars
Pubs and Bars
Music, Dance and Theater
Cinema
Art Galleries
Sport
Southern Lazio
Sightseeing Strategies
Tivoli
Frascati and The Castelli Romani
Parco Nazionale Del Circeo
Terracina
Sperlonga
Gaeta
Le Isole Ponziane
Itri
Cassino
Northern Lazio
Sightseeing Strategies
Cerveteri
Lago Di Bracciano
Viterbo
Tarquinia
Tuscania
Montefiascone
Essentials
Getting to Rome
Moving Around
Food
Accommodation
Shopping
Specific Needs
Health and Safety
Bureaucracy
Money Matters
Services
Speaking
Resources
Background
Geography
Flora and Fauna
History
Government and Economy
People and Culture
Art and Architecture
About the Authors
Smart Guide Italy Titles
Suggestions and Corrections
Thanks
tmp_c61bec7c0e9375605b0ad686253a9985_hsfUkB_html_719a33e.jpgDear Traveler,
Welcome to the 2014 edition of Smart Guide Italy: Rome and Lazio Region. A new edition means two things. First of all we survived. There are many travel guide options these days but over 5,000 travelers from around the world chose Smart Guide and allowed our independent team of writers and researchers to continue doing what we love. The second thing a new edition means is that we’ve tried to improve everything.
We didn’t just want to fact check and update listings but to evolve the guide and do everything we could to improve your experience. For starters that meant adding maps and photographs of key destinations. It also meant reevaluating content and where it was presented. In this edition we have emphasized neighborhoods and positioned all relevant information about an area within the same section. We figured if you’re walking through Testaccio you’ll want to know what to see as well as where to eat, drink and shop.
The other big change is the use of internal links within the guide. Now if you’re at the Forum and would like to visit something similar you can connect to relevant sights around the city. That saves time and helps you discover the things you want to experience. We’ve also added new content on planning, practicalities and essentials such as dining, getting around, services, kids, language, prices, background and resources.
Those are just some the changes we hope will make your journey even more memorable.
Alexei Cohen
Series Editor
tmp_c61bec7c0e9375605b0ad686253a9985_hsfUkB_html_m7538362f.jpgRome isn't a single city. It's many cities in one and walking the cobblestone streets of the historic center is like entering a time machine where ancient ruins fade into Middle Age buildings and Renaissance piazzas with Baroque fountains. Rome can feel a little daunting and from the terraces of Villa Borghese the collage of domes and bell towers constructed over the centuries seems infinite. Diving into this maze of history is immensely rewarding whether you are interested in art, history, fashion or food. The secret is not to try to see it all or even pretend that you can.
The city's two and half million residents seem unfazed by the beauty around them. They're too busy slaloming through traffic or enjoying an afternoon espresso to notice the Colosseum or Fontana di Trevi. What matters is a good meal and that trattoria on the Via Appia serving the best cacio pepe (cheese and pepper pasta) in town. Small talk revolves around food rather than the weather which is generally sunny. But even rain doesn't slow the mopeds down and Piazza Venezia remains hazardous to pedestrians 365 days a year. Clear blue skies return in time for Christmas and New Years when shoppers huddle around department store windows along the Corso and super chic boutiques of Via Condotti.
Fortunately globalization hasn't put a dent in Rome's age old routines. Shops close at one o'clock, the Pope blesses pilgrims in St. Peters square every Sunday at 11 a.m., and the daily market in Campo De’ Fiori is as lively as ever. Artichokes appear in Spring, peaches in Summer, and grapes in Autumn. The wrinkled faces behind the stalls say more with their hands than they could ever say with words. Thumb pressed to forefinger and index means what do you want? And it doesn't take long to learn the sign language needed to order a slice of pizza or cappuccino. Of course knowing a few words of Italian will enhance your experience and provide a significant advantage over monolingual visitors.
Italy's capital and largest city is laid back compared to Milan where finance and fashion are king. There's always time to enjoy an aperitivo generally served with appetizers after work before facing the evening rush hour. With only two subway lines congestion is guaranteed but construction on a third and fourth line are underway and will eventually speed up getting to the stadium in time to see either of Rome's football teams in action. Romans are more interested in getting a good night's sleep than staying up all night and restaurants outnumber bars or clubs. The best entertainment however is just sitting in a piazza gazing at the architecture and trying to guess the century.
Quick Facts: Rome
population: 2.6 million
foundation: 753 AD (according to legend)
elevation: 20 m (70ft)
gps: 41°54’N 12°30’E
currency: euro
dialing code: 06
time zone: GMT +1
moniker: Caput Mundo
What’s New?
Since the last edition was published a lot has happened in Rome. Visitors who imagine Rome as a static unchanging city are mistaken. The city is very much alive and although the rate of change may not be as rapid as other European capitals it is constantly evolving. The newly elected center-left mayor has made mobility a priority and quite a few pedestrian projects have been launched in the last year. Many monuments have been recently restored or are currently undergoing restoration. A new train station with high speed connections to other major Italian cities was recently opened, the Linea B subway was extended and several new bridges now cross the Tiber river.
One of the biggest projects and the one which directly affects visitors is the building of the new Linea C subway and the renovation of existing stations. The work will be especially evident to anyone visiting the Forum and means the once wide sidewalks along Via Foro Imperiali connecting the Colosseum with Piazza Veneto have been significantly narrowed and are now crammed with visitors snailing along in either direction. Many of the monuments in the area are undergoing a face lift including the Colosseum itself which is partially covered in scaffolding as is the nearby triumphal arch and several other important sights within the Forum.
tmp_c61bec7c0e9375605b0ad686253a9985_hsfUkB_html_42d2a443.jpgSeveral important museums have been opened or reopened in the last couple of years including the new MAXXI designed by Zahad Hadid and the restored MACRO. A new market was built in Testaccio and the old market is currently being transformed into a park. Piazza Cavour was finally completed near Castel Sant Angelo and many streets in the historic center have been refurbished and pedestrianized. The number of new bars and restaurants is great and includes the Eataly emporium near Piramide where food buffs will find any flavor they desire.
Of course prices have gone up but inflation is relatively low in Italy and sightseeing, dining and entertainment are all reasonably priced. A cup of espresso is still only a euro and even though the price of public transportation has increased it remains the best way of navigating the city. The ferry however that once carried visitors up and down the Tiber is no more but the Mayor has promised to replace it with bicycle sharing. Further information about all the above and new events is available within the neighborhood, entertainment and transportation sections.
Planning
When to go
Tourism is a year-round reality in Italy that peaks in August and during the Christmas and Easter holidays. There is no single best time to visit and what period you choose depends on personal preferences regarding weather, costs, services, and elbow room. Spring and fall are pleasant in Rome and with the exception of Easter there are fewer tourists waiting in line while hotels charge mid-season rates.
Autumn is also harvest time when sagre festivals celebrate the ingredients harvested in the surrounding countryside. New vintages are bottled and wine flows freely. By September, Italian schools have started again and beaches are virtually abandoned. Summer is by far the most popular time to visit and hotels take advantage of the demand to raise their rates. Airlines also charge their highest fares in summer so tickets should be purchased well in advance. Also keep in mind that the majority of Italians go on vacation in August and over 70 percent decide to remain within Italy.
Winter is packed with religious festivals and if you want a white Christmas Rome isn’t where you’ll find it. Carnevale is low key but skiers can hit the nearby slopes that are within 90 minutes of the capital. There are fewer tourists during this time so art lovers can examine the Sistine Chapel without feeling rushed and spend less time in lines. Accommodations are also more affordable in winter and last-minute travelers will have no problem finding a room.
What to bring
The contents of your suitcase depends on the season and length of your stay. Beware of over packing and select comfortable clothes that can easily be mixed and matched. Layers are important in spring and fall when mornings are chilly and temperatures vary throughout the day. A suitcase with wheels will make it easier to get around airports and to your hotel. Backpacks or handbags are good for storing items you’ll take on daily excursions and should have zippers to dissuade pickpockets. It’s probably best to leave expensive watches and jewelry and a money belt can be useful for storing necessary valuables and cash.
Some formal clothes may be necessary if you plan on any fine dining or clubbing. Italians generally like to dress up and rarely let their fashion guard down. Flip-flops and sleeveless shirts are fine for the beach but the Swiss Guard won’t permit them inside the Vatican. Keep in mind that knees and shoulders must be covered when entering religious buildings. Sunglasses are essential during the summer, especially if you’ll be doing any driving, and baseball hats are useful — even if Italians don’t often wear them. A high-SPF sunscreen is vital as it can get very hot among the cobblestones.
You’ll probably do more walking in Italy than at home so bring at least two comfortable pairs of shoes. If you’re only traveling for a few days it may be useful to buy sample-size shampoo, toothpaste, and soap to keep weight down (they’ll also cause less damage if they accidentally open). If you forget something, you should have no problem finding it in Italy; pharmacies are especially useful for replacing lost toiletries or picking up aspirin. If you take medicine make sure to bring enough and have a copy of your prescription in case you need a refill.
Most hotels provide hairdryers but if you are staying in a bed and breakfast or hostel you may want to pack one. It should be adaptable to Italy’s 220 voltage. A European plug converter is useful for recharging MP3 players, digital cameras, and cellular phones. Adapters can be hard to find in Italy and airports are usually the best place to pick them up. If you’re taking photos the old-fashioned way, stock up on film before leaving as prices are higher in Italy. An extra memory card is useful for digital photographers planning on documenting every moment of the journey. Items like binoculars are helpful for observing the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, church facades, and rooftop panoramas. Pack some pens if you plan on writing any postcards and a notebook for jotting down impressions of neighborhoods and ingredients from memorable lunches. Even if you aren’t an artist, try sketching the sights or making souvenir rubbings of the ruins you encounter in the Forum or along the Via Appia Antica.
You’ll need your passport and a driver’s license if you plan on renting a moped or car. An international license is not required but can avoid confusion if you’re pulled over. It only costs $15 and is available from any AAA office in the United States. Making a copy of vital documents facilitates replacing them should they be lost or stolen. You can also email yourself any important credit card codes or customer service numbers to report stolen cards. Most of all, don’t forget to pack your curiosity.
Climate
Not everyone has the opportunity to choose when they can travel but if you are flexible May and September are ideal months to visit. Not only are there fewer visitors but temperatures are warm, daylight is long and precipitation is low. If you must travel at a certain time make sure to plan accordingly. November and December for example although relatively mild are the rainiest months in the capital and you should prepare to spend time indoors or have a good raincoat and waterproof shoes.
Etiquette
Most of the things considered rude in Europe and North America are also considered rude in Italy. One exception is lines, which rarely form any recognizable pattern and generally resemble a fumble recovery (or ruck if you prefer rugby). If you do not defend your place by saying scusi or coughing loudly you may be waiting all day for a cappuccino or slice of pizza. Fortunately number dispensers are used in post offices and most pharmacies. Personally space is generally smaller than in Anglo-Saxon countries and Italians tend to use their hands as well as words to express themselves.
Kissing is as Italian as pizza and the way individuals demonstrate respect, friendship, and love. The most common form is the double cheek kiss. It can be uncomfortable for the uninitiated but no one will impose this greeting on you and a handshake is equally acceptable. If you observe carefully you’ll see women kissing women, women kissing men, men kissing women, men kissing men and everyone kissing children. Men who kiss eachother can be good friends, colleagues, relatives, or lovers.
Kisses are exchanged at the beginning and end of most social encounters. An Italian man introduced to an Italian woman (or vice versa) for the first time will generally exchange kisses. Men will shake hands and women may kiss or shake hands. Non-Italians can greet however they please. While citizens of other countries tend to exchange goodbyes quickly, Italians love to linger. The time between verbal indication of departure and actual physical departure can be very long and is generally spent discussing the next day and making preliminary arrangements for a future meeting.
Italians are attached to their habits and especially those related to food. Meal times are fairly strict and most eating is done sitting down at precise hours. Romans generally have a light breakfast and save themselves for lunch and dinner which are usually served at 1 and 8 p.m.. You won’t see as many locals snacking on the subway or bus as you may back home and Romans don’t often walk while they eat. Meals are usually divided alla Romana (dutch) between friends but no one will take offence if you offer to pay. Although Romans are generous rounds of drinks are generally not purchased as they are in England or the United States. Drinking in general is done over a meal rather than with the intention of getting smashed and displays of public drunkenness are rare.
The important thing to remember, as when visiting any foreign land, is to respect local customs as much as possible. Travel is about immersing oneself in another culture and adapting to new situations. It’s not about expecting everything to be like it is back home.
In any case doing as the Romans do is probably not that different from what you already do and if it is try to appreciate the differences.
Practicalities
Using this guide
This guide is meant to be as flexible as possible and provide all the information you need to organize a memorable journey to Rome. It contains many internal links that are useful for creating your own personal travel plan and pursuing your interests. At the beginning of each neighborhood section you’ll find transit info, an overview of the area, a suggested itinerary and map. Each listing contains address, opening times, telephone, website and price. Entrance fees to museums and monuments are for full price tickets while the amount listed after restaurants is the average price of a first course dish and after hotels is the cost of a double room at mid-season rates. Each sight is rated on the basis of a three star-system (*time permitting, **interesting, ***must-visit).
Hours
Rome is by no means a city that never sleeps. Sleep is important to Romans as is the tradition of the afternoon break. Shops generally open at 8 or 9 a.m. close at 1 p.m. and reopen at 3 or 4 p.m.. Department stores and boutiques in the center may have continual hours but the farther you get from the Corso the more likely you are to find shutters drawn in the early afternoon. Opening is also affected by the day and month. Many small shops remain closed on Sundays or are only open half a day. Retailers also tend to close up for a week or two in August and during important holidays.
Museums and restaurants usually take one day-off during the week and Monday is the preferred option. Restaurants open around 12:30 a.m. and stop serving lunch at around 3 p.m. while dinner service begins at 7:30 p.m. and ends at 10:30 p.m. at the latest. Summer hours tend to be a little later as the days are hotter and locals put off eating until temperatures cool down. Bars open early and remain so throughout the day while bakeries start selling bread and pastries before dawn and close in the early afternoon. Museum and monument opening hours may vary throughout the year and most close their ticket offices one or two hours before closure.
Prices
Every year local newspapers report some unwitting visitor charged an exorbitant fee for a taxi ride or cup of coffee. Tourists can be easy targets for unscrupulous business owners who charge one price for locals and another for anyone holding a map. Most Italians however are honest and to keep them that way it’s a good idea to have an idea of local prices before buying anything. Bars and shops must clearly display all their prices and taxi fees to and from the airports are fixed. Markets can be murkier but all food is generally sold by weight and clothes and other objects should be labeled. If they are not feel free to inquire about the price and ask for a discount if you feel it’s too high. Remember also that all transactions (except those conducted by the nomadic salespeople around popular monuments) should be accompanied by a receipt (ricevuto) and it's always a good idea to ask for one if it isn't presented.
The following list provides the average cost for a variety of items. Prices will fluctuate slightly depending on the neighbourhood and location but if you find yourself being charged a great deal more then you are either being ripped off or have selected the most expensive establishment in Rome.
Bar
espresso €1
cappuccino €1.20
breakfast pastry (cornetto) €1
triangle sandwich (tremezzino) €2
other sandwiches €3-4.5
fresh squeezed orange juice €2.50-3.50
small bottle of water €1
large bottle of water €2
Restaurant
small beer €2-3
large beer €3-5
bottle of house wine €7-10
first course €8-11
second course €11-15
Other
bus/metro fare €1.50
movie ticket €8-10
postcard
stamp
gas/diesel fuel €1.60/1.70 per litre
street parking €1 per hour
Saving
Rome is not an expensive city and there are plenty of ways to save and spend if you are on a budget. The first and biggest savings is deciding when to visit. Prices for hotels are seasonal and you can spend a great deal less by avoiding the summer high season or religious holidays. Most museums and monuments provide discounts for children under 12, young adults between 18-25 and seniors over 65. Benefits vary from 50% off to free and are generally clearly indicated at the ticket office. Occasionally these are reserved for EU citizens only but if you come from outside there's no harm in trying. Some museums like the Vatican have one day (last Sunday morning of every month) when visits are free for all visitors.
Bars in the centre generally charge one price for sitting down and another for eating or drinking at the counter. You'll notice most Italians drink their coffee quickly while standing while most visitors prefer to sit down and sip their cappuccinos. Restaurants offer plenty of pre-fixe menus and if you don't think you can finish off an entire bottle of wine you can always ask for a half or quarter carafe. Unless you are a connoisseur you can't go wrong with the house wine for both price and quality. You can also prepare your very own picnic with products from a market or specialty shop and enjoy it on a quiet square or park bench.
Taxis are expensive and can be difficult to find. There are plenty of buses and trams in the centre and they provide an authentic experience you can't get from the back of a cab. Single tickets are relatively cheap but if you plan on using them a lot the daily or three day pass are a good idea. The best things in Rome of course are free and there is no charge for getting lost in the back streets of