NPR

The Rise Of Mock Meat: How Its Story Reflects America's Ever-Changing Values

Summer's coming to an end, and whether for health or ethical reasons, more people are flipping veggie burgers — which have come a long way since the sanitarium-created concoctions of the 19th century.
Today, veggie burgers are engineered to be more like meat than could have been conceived in the basement health-food stores of the 1980s or the sanitariums of a century prior. / The Washington Post / Getty Images

Monday is Labor Day — the last hurrah of grilling for much of America. And at many of these summertime cookouts, you'll find veggie burgers alongside (or instead of) the traditional beef and brats. Whether for health, environmental or ethical reasons, more people are tossing veggie burgers on the grill — even carnivores.

Today's mock meats are getting closer and closer to the taste and texture of the real thing. But as more Americans embrace these next-generation veggie burgers, we can't help but wonder — where did veggie burgers come from in the first place?

For early vegetarians, the lack of a meaty veggie burger with decent char wasn't just because our forebears hadn't mastered isolating wheat gluten and pea protein. It was ideological.

"Through the 1850s and 1860s, vegetarian food, who traced the history of early American vegetarianism in his book .

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